Southern pride, as foreign to a Northerner as boiled peanuts and hush puppies, is reflected everywhere: shop windows, truck stops and front porches. Dixie devotion takes many forms, but most common are Confederate flags, military icons and other relics of a war fought — and lost — nearly 200 years ago.

The South itself is a living, breathing tribute to the War of Northern Aggression – it shapes the contours of daily life, from politics to religion to social custom.

In a part of America so enthralled with its own history and traditions, a visitor might be surprised that the South is relatively modern in design. Such cities as Columbia, South Carolina, Raleigh/Durham North Carolina and Atlanta, Georgia boast some of the most contemporary architecture and layout as you’re likely to encounter in the States. The reason is simple: a guy named General William Sherman burned most of the original stuff to the ground.

Sherman wreaked havoc on the American South. His “March to the Sea” left landscapes devastated, families broken and torn, and upended the Confederate economy, choking the last ounce of breath out of America’s Old South. He left a burning path behind him for miles, torching any and every town and village he came upon — including the now-gleaming metropolis of Atlanta.

There remains a major anomaly to this New South, a curious relic that rests along Georgia’s short seacoast: the city of Savannah. For one reason or another, Savannah seems frozen in time. Journeying downtown is like stepping out of Doc Brown’s DeLorean. Here, visitors find themselves surrounded by some of the nation’s oldest and most cherished homes – antebellum dwellings that owe their existences to early 19th century preservation efforts. Just about every downtown building is a historical site – each one with a plaque on the outside along with cornerstone proof of date of erection and principal owner.

Did Sherman’s march to the sea not make it to the coastline? As matter of fact, the General occupied Savannah for a lengthy period of time. Yet the pyromaniacal Yank spared the city the throws of his torch. The city was left intact.

But why?

Some believe that Sherman spared Savannah because of its breathtaking beauty. Others claim that when he saw the slaves of Savannah willing to protect the city without the master’s orders, he recognized it as a emblem of potential Southern virtue. Both explanations seem a bit dramatic. According to a friendly local with whom I spoke during a visit last month, the local politicians invited Sherman and his men into the city, greeted the tired and starving Northern soldiers as brothers and stayed flame-free as a return favor.

The people and culture of Savannah were also left largely un-violated. An odd and eclectic group, Savannah citizens take pride in their traditions, and sport antiquated seersucker suits, top hats and throwback facial hair. The women honor the past through mannerisms, dress, and courtesies more Scarlet O’ Hara than Scarlett Johannssen. Horses trot up and down the original cobblestone streets, and the old Southern way of life remains intact — even if it is just for show.

Savannah’s attempt to preserve its past encompasses all aspects of Southern life — and Southern death.

When you visit the city, be sure to skip the ghost tour trolleys along the cobblestone. And don’t be alarmed if you happen upon a Confederate soldier in one of the many beautiful garden squares that dot the historic district — it’s just a SCAD student earning a few extra bucks as a ghost tour guide. It might seem weird that everyone gabbers of ghosts, spooks, haints and even murderous phantoms, but it’s perfectly normal for them.

It’s just Savannah being Savannah. Preserving its past in a celebration of the paranormal.

A short while ago, my wife and I packed up the car and took off for the coastal city; our second visit in the ten years we’ve been carpetbagging the South. I made it my personal goal to dine in and visit as many legendary haunted locations as possible throughout Savannah. Although we couldn’t get a room at TheMarshall House – a large, restored hotel in the center of town with an entire floor plagued by a murderous and terrifying presence, we did get to eat at The Olde Pink House — the former home of a Confederate captain that’s now a fine dining establishment. The food is marvelous, as are the tales of ghosts that haunt the basement pub. Many employees claim to have seen the apparitions of two Confederate soldiers saddling up to the bar for a sniff of brandy. Also, the former owner, apparently disgusted with the feminine color of his house, has been known to tug at any pink apparel in the joint. Ourwaiter, a three year veteran of the restaurant, said that, while he’d never seen the ghosts, every so often a female diner would report on her clothes being pulled at while in the bathroom. But to his recollection, nothing has been experienced by any employee firsthand during his time there.

Next stop was Moon River Brewery — a staple for locals. This would be the place I could see myself and friends relaxing after a day of work, escaping the tourists, and imbibing the delicious brew (try the aptly-named “Apparition”). The Moon River Brewery’s ghostly past has been cemented by the folks over at TAPS, who glimpsed evidence of a shadowy figure moving behind a pool table in a far corner of its lower level — a place where they admitted that no door was present (meaning that a forgery would have to pass in front of the camera). So I went to the location, found the pool table… and the hidden door against the wall leading to another room. Disappointed, I told my wife as the folks at the neighboring table asked our waiter if they could go downstairs and say “hi” to the friendly ghost seen on “Ghost Hunters.” My wife and I shrugged our soldiers and continued our meal.

The rest of our weekend was similar. We stopped at all the hot spots and inquired of employees’ experiences. Most replies began the same way: “Well, I’ve never experienced something but I heard that one time…”

Our last stop on our “Haunt Jaunt” in Savannah was the one that I will remember. The Owens-Thomas House is one of the oldest and best-preserved homes in the city. The main building is immaculate and beautiful, a stunning depiction of antebellum affluence. Beyond the spot where guides greet guests are the slave quarters, which have remained practically untouched in almost 200 years. Here lay the relics of a nearly-forgotten past: slave tools behind glass cases, financial records of human trade in the corner and an old blanket draped over a a rickety chair.

The first thing our guide pointed out was the ceiling. It was painted by the slaves — the same hands of those who worked the house — and has never been altered or restored. The color they chose: an original hue they called “Haint Blue.”

The slaves believed that this color kept wicked spirits from infiltrating their own world. It acted as a barrier between them and the twisted wills of the long departed.

Beneath this azure cover they would lie in the freezing seaside cold fearing the unseen and unconquerable hands of forces they could not resist — the only protection being a thin layer of paint and an even thinner layer of hope.

As we toured the main house, I marveled at the elevated bridge inside, was dazzled by gold pieces and color-schemed rooms honoring foreign dignitaries, and took in the elegance of another time. Still, my mind constantly went back to the untouched ceiling in the slave house.

Because the hands that painted that ceiling are the true spirits that haunt Savannah and many other parts of the American South. And all the opulence and wealth cannot cover it up.

Ultimately, the ghosts and spirit stories told to preserve a link to Savannah’s past haunt the city far less than the fading ceiling paint in a small building behind the Owens-Thomas House.

The place we stayed at was remarkable, especially the room. We had a private rooftop pool and grill, and the suite was large and comfortable. In the public area were five or six separate pools, each with a slightly different character. The beach was amazing — biggest waves I’ve ever encountered. The ocean kicked my ass daily.

The best part was, we had the entire resort practically to ourselves. The only complaint we had was that the food sucked. Like, really sucked. But you can’t have everything, I guess.

Here’s a few pics from the trip.

I’m on a plane right now, waiting to be whisked off to Barbados for some much-needed R&R. Before I power down the mobile, however, I wanted to give my debate partner from last week’s Israel/Palestine post the chance to respond to my summary of our argument (which as you may recall, took place on a mutual friend’s Facebook page).

I’m happy to present his side more fully. Though I strived to make my previous post as balanced and accurate as possible, this is my site, and, as a writer, I know that framing is everything.

I appreciate that my debate partner — who must remain anonymous — has taken the time to carry our discussion forward.

See you all in a week.

——————————-

I think your description of our conversation is mostly fair. However, I’d like to point out that after I discussed the anti-Israel echo chamber I sent another post to our mutual friend recognizing that there is a pro-Israel echo chamber also. Also, the quote about anti-semitism, in the context you placed it, may give the impression that I think that any questioning of Israeli policy is tantamount to Jew-hating. I do not think that, I question some Israeli policies myself. I also want to make it clear that I did not accuse our mutual friend of being anti-semitic, I specified that I was not accusing her of anti-semitism. I think there are people, especially in Europe, for whom Israel-bashing is a convenient and politically correct form of anti-semitism, but I do not think that all or even most criticizers of Israel are anti-semitic.

Now for the substance. Regarding your point re Hamas’s legitimacy bringing change, I was glad when Hamas won the election because I think being in power generally tends to moderate extremists because people tend to be more pragmatic when there are consequences to their actions. Unfortunately, Hamas refused (and still refuses) to agree to stand by agreements that were previously made between the PA and Israel. It does not recognize Israel’s right to exist, nor does it acknowledge the peace process as a solution to the issue. The following is a direct quote from Hamas’s charter: “There is no solution to the Palestinian problem except by Jihad. The initiatives, proposals and International Conferences are but a waste of time, an exercise in futility.” I think Israel and the U.S. were not wrong in considering this unacceptable and expecting that agreements between Israel and the PA be binding regardless of which party is in power in the PA. That is why Israel and the U.S. haven’t been negotiating with Hamas, Hamas won’t move off their position.

The U.S. and Israel’s special relationship began in the context of Cold War politics. Through the 1950s and 1960s, Nasser moved closer to the Soviet bloc for a variety of reasons. This inherently made the relationship between Israel and the West, especially the U.S. stronger. Israel was our closest ally in a region of high strategic interest. Of course, the U.S.’s Jewish and religious Christian populations also had a role in heightening the relationship because the existence of a Jewish homeland in the Middle East was important to both groups.

I would say the primary reason for the relationship is a matter of principle. Israel is a democracy and with the exception of Iraq now, it is the only democracy in the Middle East. It is a constant target of political attacks by Muslim countries and petty dictators who want to draw attention from their own abuses, and it would be the target of military attacks if it wasn’t able to defend itself. I believe it is, and should be, against our principles to allow a democratic ally get pounded by a collection of dictators. Also, most Americans believe in the principle of a Jewish homeland in the Middle East. Second, Israel is an ally of ours in the struggle against terrorism. Third, we derive economic benefits from Israel’s technology, and we benefit from Israel having one of the best intelligence services in the world.

I anticipate that you may dispute my second point by contending that terrorists target us because of our special relationship with Israel. That is not correct. Al-Qaeda targets us because it is their philosophy that (their) God is sovereign over the whole world so the whole world must acknowledge the leadership of God’s law and God’s representatives (naturally, them). It doesn’t matter who we have a relationship with, we are not Muslim so we must be subjugated. Iran’s hatred of the U.S. is more rooted in U.S. support for the Shah than it is in U.S. support for Israel. And Hezbollah has proven that getting what they want does not stop them. Israel’s withdrawal from Lebanon in 2000, didn’t end its struggle with Hezbollah. Hezbollah kidnapped and murdered Israeli soldiers without provocation in 2006.

One of the benefits of being underpaid, overworked and under-appreciated is two months of paid vacation time and not having to return to work until August 2nd (which happens to be my birthday).

Although this was my fifth year in education, it was my second as a full-time literature teacher. To call it a “sophomore slump” would be an understatement. The past ten months took its toll on me. My kids were difficult, their parents nagging and the administration put plenty of pressure on us all — enough pressure to break many a seasoned teacher, much less this second stringer.

My previous vacations were spent wrapping up a BA in literary criticism. My first open summer without studies was last year, during which time I traveled Europe. That was a truly life-changing journey, and one that stays with me every day. But here I am with a completely empty summer ahead. What am I going to do? Well, I’ve decided that I’m gonna do a lot of writing — short stories and perhaps even an attempt at a novel. I also plan to drink copious amounts of red wine and read plenty of Shakespeare and other books I’d set aside for later.

One piece of planning eluded me, however. Since I’m no longer a member of a paranormal research group, how would I appease my supernatural demons? A summer without an investigation is hardly a summer at all. So, I found a happy medium. In celebration of the life of my soul brother, Dennis Hopper, I’m hitting the road.

I’ll choose top-notch paranormal “hot spots” within a day’s driving distance of Atlanta, fire up the hog (or the 2009 Honda Civic), stuff a bag full of illegal narcotics (or granola bars) and check out each of these locales, hopefully hitting one a week. My stops will be will be spur-of-the-moment decisions, each one occurring spontaneously. That said, here’s are a few places I definitely plan on going:

1) Sloss Furnace – Birmingham, AL:  A relic of a steel rendering building from the early 20th-century, the Sloss Furnace is a reminder of an almost forgotten industry. In this locale, shadows are seen at night, people are pushed and slapped by unseen hands and voices are heard throughout the factory.

2) The Old Pink House – Savannah, GA:  Once the home of a Confederate general and his family, The Old Pink House has become one of the most beautiful restaurants in the city. Located in Savannah’s time capsule historic district, this building supposedly has shadows that can be seen throughout the basement area (refurbished as a tavern), lights turning on and off on their own, and beer taps opening and closing all by themselves.

3) Chicken Alley – Asheville, NC: When Dr. Jamie Smith walked into Chicken Alley over a century ago to have a drink in a local tavern, he left in a body bag. Since then, the good doctor’s spirit has been seen hustling through the alleyway on more than one occasion. Today, the alley is ground zero for Asheville’s graffiti artists — a gorgeous location in an already amazing Southern city.

4) The Bellamy Mansion – Wilmington, NC: One of my favorite cities. Set on the Atlantic coastline, Wilmington’s beautiful scenery makes it a must-drive-through. The Bellamy Mansion is one of its oldest buildings. The ghosts of an unidentified elderly couple have been seen walking the grounds and second floor for decades.

5) “Hell Church” – Old Canton, GA:  This will be one of the most difficult locations to find — “Hell Church” is a lost building set in the middle of nowhere. The only hint is that it’s set in the woods off of a nonspecific point of Highway 140. The building is decrepit, surrounded by headstones from the 1700’s. Rumors have it that Hell Church has been adopted as a Satanic worshiping site, the mutilated body of a boy having been found there in the 1980s. Shadowy figures, screaming voices from the woods and even cases of possession have been reported (I will go during the day).

These five locations will get me started, and I am sure I will choose more. I’ll be sure to post pics to The Contrarian as explore…

Amazing time-lapse video shot by Sean Stiegemeier of the difficult-to-pronounce volcano that has wreaked havoc on the travel plans of Europeans and North Americans. I visited this area last year and it was truly breathtaking.

Currently, I’m “spanning time” in a hotel bar, surrounded by Labatt Blue drinkers and hockey fans. I think Rush is playing.

Why not throw a little FAIL into the mix?

Here is a zany story from the BBC about a Weekend at Bernie’s situation on a flight bound for Berlin, last week.

More soon, Contrarians.

I’ve mostly been at panels the whole time. Did get to hang out with some old-school rockers, though. I’m “only” 35, but I identify more strongly with musicians from the 1970s. As a great man once said, I guess I just wasn’t made for these times. On the bright side, a certain someone said my guitar playing was like the great Buck Dharma. And this someone should know.

Speaking of my own music, I’ve got probably five copies of Eldritch Musicks left. I’m not planning on doing a re-press, so this is it. It’s not like it was a 15,000 CD run, but I’m pleased with the response from all around the world. Especially since I don’t play live.

I’ve been dicking around in the studio every so often in hopes of collecting enough songs for a new record. I was actually thinking of releasing it as a graphic novel, and sticking a CD inside as the soundtrack. I’ve sketched out a basic plot/character outline; now I’ve just gotta find the time to write it (and get someone to illustrate it).

Anyway, the new songs are a bit more psychedelic and moody, but they’re still essentially rock. I was planning on writing more stripped-down tunes, but somehow that never happens. A song isn’t a song unless it’s got at least ten guitar tracks, six vocal tracks, organ, mellotron, bass and drums.

Today, I gotta go do more panels, some light press and then maybe have a couple of drinks and maybe even some music.

Later…

Due to the reemergence of students filtering back into my high school classroom — new unit plans, seating charts and the such, my post this week will be short and sweet. That said, I wanted to introduce readers to one of my all-time favorite paranormal websites circling the tubes: Shadowlands.

The website is a typical paranormal site, with a focus on ghosts, UFOs, and Cryptozoology. There are subpages dedicated to famous hauntings, photographs and videos, reader story submissions and ghost hunting equipment (my next post will look at the now-flooded market of ghost “hunting” tools). But what separates Shadowlands from the thousands of other websites dedicated to the supernatural is the “Haunted Places Index.”

Here, visitors can look up his or her home state and hometown and read up on all the places nearby with supposed paranormal activity. Visitors can submit their own locales, and the list is constantly updated as buildings are torn down or when the local police get hip to possible trespassers. The Index covers not only North America, and its world grows bigger and bigger each month.

I would be a liar if I said that I didn’t plan vacations around the Index.

It is in the Haunted Places Index that the little known Carbur’s building in my former hometown of Burlington, VT keeps company with the infamous Winchester Mystery House [Editor's note: see my earlier photo essay] and the Borley Rectory — the dual Meccas of the paranormal community.

Visit the page, scroll through some of the local legends and lore of your surrounding area and plan a road trip. Let me know what you find.

The booze was the property of British polar explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton, who had been on an expedition, subsequently abandoned. My guess is that he gave up when he lost the sauce. ‘Tis the only reasonable course of action.

So what’s the big deal about this well-aged whiskey? If you have to ask, you clearly don’t understand the appeal of drinking something that tastes like it came from an ancient Irish crypt. And of course, there’s a marketing angle:

Whyte & Mackay, the drinks group that now owns McKinlay and Co., has asked for a sample of the 100-year-old scotch for a series of tests that could decide whether to relaunch the now-defunct Scotch.

Workers from New Zealand’s Antarctic Heritage Trust will use special drills to reach the crates, frozen in Antarctic ice under the Nimrod Expedition hut near Cape Royds.

Al Fastier, who will lead the expedition in January, said restoration workers found the crates of whisky under the hut’s floorboards in 2006. At the time, the crates and bottles were too deeply embedded in ice to be dislodged.

The New Zealanders have agreed to try to retrieve some bottles, although the rest must stay under conservation guidelines agreed by 12 Antarctic Treaty nations.

Fastier said he did not want to sample the contents.

“It’s better to imagine it than to taste it,” he said. “That way it keeps its mystery.”

Mystery or no, if you need taste-testers, Mr. Fastier, I would like to humbly offer my services.